Scott Marine Surveyor Blog

WHAT THEY DON'T HAVE TO TELL YOU

New boats may have older model outboard engines. If you're shopping for a new outboard-powered boat, the engine may not be the same model year as the boat. The U.S. Coast Guard has no model-year regulations for outboard engines, making it harder for you to determine the year in which they were built. In the mid-2000s, most engine manufacturers stopped designating model years for their outboard engines. Outboard manufacturers say that until they make a significant change to an engine, the year it was built is irrelevant. And while that's true, buyers are concerned they don't know if they're getting the newest technology. After discontinuing model years, engine manufacturers replaced the model-year designator on the engine's serial number with a code that signifies an "era" in which all engines are supposed to be the same, with similar upgrades. 

HINs don't lie. Check the Hull Identification Number (HIN) on any boat you consider buying (new or used) to make sure that the age of the boat is correct. The last two digits indicate the boat's model year.

Boat brokers are not regulated like real estate agents. Only Florida and California brokers have to be licensed, and only California requires an exam. Elsewhere, anyone can call him-or herself a broker. One way to increase your chances of finding a good broker is to look for a Certified Professional Yacht Broker (CPYB). These brokers are members of the Yacht Brokers Association of America (YBAA), have taken a comprehensive exam, have pledged to abide by a code of ethics.

How many horsepower? Engine horsepower is allowed to vary by as much as 10% either way. Disappointed or thrilled with your engine's performance? Your 200-hp outboard could be making 180 or 220 hp.

A hull warranty is just that — it covers only the hull. A hull warranty is usually defined as the fiberglass shell, including transom, stringers, and related structural reinforcements, which are below the hull-to-deck joint. That means the deck is typically not part of the warranty. Also, hull warranties often include limited coverage for blisters and none for gelcoat crazing.

Some warranties can be transferred. But not all of them. And even if they can be, there may be a cost or some hoops to jump through. If you buy a boat with a transferable warranty, call the company to find out how to transfer the warranty and call back a few weeks later to verify that it was actually done. You don't want to find out later there was a snag and you have no coverage.

Rust doesn't sleep — and isn't covered. Damage caused by corrosion is almost never covered under warranty — or by insurance.

There is an accepted system of right of way, which must followed to maintain order while still being courteous and safety-minded. These are many rules but if you learn to stick to just a few, you should be covered in most recreational boating situations.

In the following, the “stand-on vessel” has the right of way, and the “give-way vessel” needs to accommodate the other.

1. In a situation with two boats coming head on, if possible, both vessels turn to starboard and pass port to port. This way  there’s no guesswork about the intentions of the other captain and a collision can be avoided.
2. A sailboat under sail has the right-of-way over a powerboat. If the sailboat is running with an engine, it’s considered a powerboat regardless if the sails are up.
3. If you’re being overtaken, your responsibility is to maintain course and speed. If that scenario puts anyone in harm’s way, just slow down and let the other pass because the first job of any captain is to avoid a collision regardless of who has the right-of-way.
4. If a vessel approaches you from the right, they’re the stand-on vessel.
5. Human powered vessels (kayaks, SUPs, canoes, etc.) have the right-of-way over any other vessel including a sailboat.
6. If another vessel is restricted in its ability to maneuver (due to its size, draft or any other reason) it’s the stand-on vessel and you should accommodate it.
7. When two boats are under sail, the one on the starboard tack (wind coming over the starboard side of the deck) has the right of way over the one on the port tack. If both are on the same tack, the leeward (downwind) boat has the right of way.

Is Boating a Safe Social Distancing Activity?

The answer is yes, but is a a little more complicated.

All the usual rules apply but:

• You need to limit the people aboard to those family members you share your home with, period—no guests.
• You should not raft up with other boats or pull up onto a beach close to another boat, as that could put you in close proximity with the occupants.
• You have to be careful to maintain a safe distance from others when loading up at the marina or fueling the boat, etc.
• After touching anything, even an item someone else may have touched, like a marina gate lock or a fuel pump, disinfect by washing your hands or using a hand sanitizer as soon as possible.

Finally, to maintain the highest level of safety pack your gear and supplies ahead of time and don’t plan to stop at a store on the way to the marina or launch ramp, as you usually might.

Don't assume your guests know how to react to a dinghy.

4 Tips For A Safe & Healthy Time On The Water

Running with following sea requires a skill set very different from those required with other angles of attack.

And, some might say, even a greater degree of care. You must, while keeping lookout all around as you would normally, also keep a watch astern for the oncoming following sea. Often you'll need to throttle up or down to keep the boat in a safe position relative to the sea and to avoid potentially disastrous consequences as it reaches the trough and encounters the next wave. For example, in high seas you don't want to fall over the crest and drop bow first into the trough. If this happens, the bow may dig into the next wave or the boat may slide down, beginning to turn sideways and flipping. If the bow digs down into the sea as it meets the next wave, this could cause catastrophic flooding or cause the boat to lip either to the side or stern over bow or somewhere in between. Usually these things are more likely to occur when you're running too fast for the conditions, but they can also occur, given the right circumstances, at relatively slow speeds.

It's commonly understood that we should avoid running or even drifting with seas on the beam.

But unfortunately, there are occasions when we need to do this, at least for a short while. If the seas are breaking or very big for the boat, you should figure some other way to handle the situation and not run with seas on the beam. But if it's critically necessary to run for a while with a beam sea, watch the seas very carefully and be prepared to turn into a wave that looks like it's going to break or be large enough to upset the boat's stability. On some boats, you can dampen the rolling and help with stabilization by the way you steer. Turning slightly into or out of the wave, at just the right time and just the right degree, can help keep the boat on a more even keel. Like so much of boat handling, this requires a lot of practice and familiarity with your boat and its characteristics. Learn, but not at the expense of capsizing.

Don't travel in limited visibility unless you really need to.

Know what you're doing, have appropriate navigational tools for the conditions, have all of your nav and instrument lights working, know the territory well, travel slow, and keep careful watch for others traveling. This could include boats traveling unlit at high speed and possibly with impaired operators.

Never run the boat while impaired.

Have at least one other person to help who is also not impaired. While there are many very good general principles and concepts about small-boat handling (and handling of any boat), there are so many variables that it's difficult to cast anything into cement. Variables can include different types of boats, different types of boat conditions, different types of power configurations, different sea conditions, different weather conditions, different degrees of visibility, different sets of operator knowledge and skills, and much more. So don't take anything I've said here as gospel, and realized that I've hardly scratched the surface as to skills that you need to safely handle a small boat.

Keep the boat well trimmed.

When under way, the bow shouldn't be down. More and more we're seeing people running boats with the bow down. Not only does running bow down promote waves flooding in over the bow; it also makes the boat less stable as it runs and more difficult to steer. One thing that may be contributing to this is the proliferation of bow riders. These may have a tendency to influence some folks to put too much weight forward. To make matters worse, some bow riders can be like a big spoon, just scooping water in when the waves come. But we can't just blame this on the type of boat. The folks aboard, or at least the skipper, also need to know what they're doing.

A powerboat should normally not be heeling (unless temporarily and slightly when making a turn).

Often we see them moving along with the weight of people, coolers, tanks, or other items to one side, causing an artificial list. This increases the likelihood of capsize should something happen unexpectedly that further contributes to destabilization of the boat; and it also makes the boat more difficult to steer.

It isn't necessarily best to meet waves bow on.

Often this results in the wave coming aboard suddenly as a large volume of water. This will depend on your boat, the speed you're running (which should normally be relatively slow if you're encountering waves), and the boat's buoyancy and other characteristics. Generally, it's best to take incoming sea to the port or starboard side just aft of the bow rather than dead on. This allows that broader and hopefully more buoyant hull section to meet the rising water, and it's far forward of taking it on the beam, which could flip you. Also, if you take it dead on the bow, you're more likely to have that narrow bow, which is designed to cut through the water, cut through the wave and not rise as much as is needed, allowing the wave to board you. Exactly how far aft of the prow you take a wave will depend on all the variables and will even change with such conditions as wave height and boat type and loading. But as you grow accustomed to your boat, you should get a good feel for this.

Pay attention to seas astern.

A surprising number of small boats (and also quite a few larger ones) are swamped when a sea comes over the stern. Normally, the top of the stern is lower that the top of the sides in other areas around the boat. This is made more so by a cutout for an outboard. Also, it's often open to the cockpit or interior of the boat, unlike the bow area, which may have at least a small deck or covering to help deflect waves from coming down inside the boat. One common cause of getting swamped, as you might expect, is overloading astern. It's natural to move people and other weight back there because it's wider and seemingly more stable.

Another common cause of getting swamped from the stern is slowing down too quickly, particularly with an outboard. The following wake catches up with your boat and floods over the stern cutout. Normally, the boat should be able to handle this, but if this is coincidentally coupled with a naturally occurring following sea and with too much loading astern, the boat could suddenly take on so much water that it becomes unstable and possibly sinks.