Scott Marine Surveyor Blog

It's that time of year and the orange orb is appearing all over.

But how did it get here?

A Short History of the Pumpkin

Pumpkins are believed to have originated in North America. Seeds from related plants have been found in Mexico dating back to 7000 to 5500 B.C.

References to pumpkins date back many centuries. The name pumpkin originated from the Greek word for "large melon" which is "pepon." "Pepon" was changed by the French into "pompon." The English changed "pompon" to "Pumpion." American colonists changed "pumpion" into "pumpkin."

Native American Indians used pumpkin as a staple in their diets centuries before the pilgrims landed. They also dried strips of pumpkin and wove them into mats. Indians would also roast long strips of pumpkin on the open fire and eat them. When white settlers arrived, they saw the pumpkins grown by the Indians and pumpkin soon became a staple in their diets. As today, early settlers used them in a wide variety of recipes from desserts to stews and soups. The origin of pumpkin pie is thought to have occurred when the colonists sliced off the pumpkin top, removed the seeds, and then filled it with milk, spices and honey. The pumpkin was then baked in the hot ashes of a dying fire.

Generally, anything that uses water for cooling or carries water for use on board, needs to be winterized. Fall is also the perfect time to do your annual oil change and transmission fluid, or lower-unit gear-lube change on your engines. Make sure your to-do list includes: Oil change and cylinder fogging for engines and generators.

• Lower-unit gear-lube change for outboards or sterndrives.
• Topping off the fuel tank, adding stabilizer or biocides as needed.
• Draining or flushing/filling any raw-water cooling systems with nontoxic antifreeze. Don't forget the air-conditioning system.
• Water system winterization, which can be draining or flushing or filling, depending on your preference. This includes tanks, heads, pumps, shower sumps, sinks, and even seacocks, if the hose runs don't drain entirely.
• Inspection of anodes and running gear.
• Washing the exterior of the boat to remove salt and dirt, and getting the cockpit or other exterior drains cleared.
• Make sure batteries are fully charged, or better yet, remove them where they can be stored indoors and given a booster charge from time to time to keep them topped up.

There are many benefits in using a dry rack storage facility:

It’s especially popular in warm weather locales. However, its available everywhere. Here’s an excerpt of an article that appeared in Boat US a while back covering the pluses and some drawbacks.

First, ease of use. You call ahead to have your boat brought down and even fueled. Then you arrive, hop in, and go. When the day is over, you return to the marina, dock the boat in the designated area, and leave. The marina washes it down and puts it back up on the rack.

Second, it may save money. Since you don't have a trailer, you're not spending money on gas, launch fees, or upkeep on the trailer. Also, because your boat isn't sitting in the water, you won't have to clean off the marine growth or bottom paint the hull every year.

Third, it keeps your boat in better shape. If your boat is sitting in a big steel barn and not constantly being bombarded by the sun's UV rays, you are lessening the possibility of gelcoat damage. However, keep in mind that if your boat is in a three-sided shed or a rack with just a roof, some sunlight might get on your boat.

Fourth, it's good protection for your boat. Most buildings have security measures like electronic security systems to stop vandalism and outright boat theft. Many of the newer buildings have fire suppression systems from sprinklers and even synthetic fire retardant foam systems. Also, many buildings in hurricane-prone zones have been built according to local hurricane codes. If you keep your boat in a hurricane-prone area, check to see what kind of protection the rack facility offers.

Fifth, it provides alternatives to keeping a boat and trailer sitting in the driveway. Due to homeowner association by-laws or city ordinances, some small boat owners can't keep their boats in their driveways. In addition, dry stack storage is good for owners who find themselves being kicked out of marinas to make room for larger yachts.

Last, it may be environmentally better in some circumstances. According to Delaware State Parks' Indian River Marina, dry stack storage "Minimizes need for dredging, minimizes water quality and flushing concerns, and reduces the amount of contact time between pesticide-containing bottom paints and the water."

Of course, as with everything, there are some downsides. Most places only allow you one launch and retrieval per day. That launch time can get long if the dry stack is extremely busy that day. Also there usually isn't any place at the facility to park your boat in the water and use it overnight. Also, you can't just show up at the facility and tinker around on your boat. Most dry stacks don't allow boat owners to work on their boats in the facility.

SOME MORE TIPS FOR GETTING READY TO WINTERIZE

Part 2

I started on Tuesday with some winterizing tips. Here's some more....

5: REPLACE GEAR OIL

Drain the lower unit of old gear oil and replace with a fresh supply. Whn changing the gear oil, be sure to check for moisture. If water comes out first, or if you see milky or lumpy oil, this is an indication your boat is experiencing moisture contamination and will need new seals before next season.

 6: GREASE AND LUBRICATE

 Find your engine’s grease fittings (most will be located in the steering

mechanism area), then use a quality marine lubricant to protect against rust,

corrosion and oxidation. Check your owner’s manual to be sure you don’t miss any

important areas that need to be greased before winter storage.

 7: REMOVE VALUABLES

 Boatyards receive little traffic in the winter, which makes break-ins easy.

Remove all valuables, including expensive electronics.

 8: CLEAN AND WAX

  9: COVER

 The best place to store your boat is in dry storage, but this can be expensive—especially in areas with long winters. At a minimum, you’ll need to cover your boat with a durable cover. Another good option is to shrink wrap your vessel.

Winterizing Your Boat

 PART 1

As you enjoy the season’s final weeks of sunshine, start thinking about preparing to winterize your boat.

STEP 1: REPLACE ENGINE OIL

Moisture and acids in old oil will pit bearings and other engine parts while in storage, so you need to drain it. First warm up the engine, while in water, so more of the dirty oil will drain out and impurities will flush out more easily.

 Use high quality oil and filters as recommended by your engine’s manufacturer. For 4-stroke outboard motors, change the oil and filter before storing for the winter.

STEP 2: FLUSH AND DRAIN COOLING WATER

 To prevent damage from expanding water when it freezes, you must drain water from your engine.

For inboard and stern driven engines: Flush the engine with clean water by using water muffs or a similar device to connect a garden hose to your cooling system. (Never run a water engine without water). Then flush until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Remember, remove drain plugs. These are usually located in the engine block and manifold. You may also need to remove the water pump hose to drain remaining water.

STEP 3: STABILIZE YOUR FUEL

Fuel can deteriorate in as little as 60 days, causing gum and varnish to build up in your engine. This results in hard starting, poor performance and reduced engine life.

The easiest way to prevent these problems is by adding a high quality marine

fuel stabilizer to prevent fuel deterioration. Then fill the tank with fresh fuel to prevent corrosion-causing water condensation. Simply run the engine for a few minutes to get treated gas throughout system—either when your boat’s in the water or while using a fitting designed to run the engine with a garden hose.

Here’s A Myth Buster: Simply draining gasoline does not prevent varnish formation in engines, since some fuel is always left behind. In addition, gaskets can dry out and that can cause leaks in the spring.

STEP 4: PROTECT INTERNAL ENGINE COMPONENTS

Remember, While in storage, engine oil drains away. This exposes internal engine components to harsh elements in winter and can lead to corrosion and metal-to-metal contact, called cylinder scuffing, come spring.  To prevent these issues, use a fogging oil spray. This type of product is specially formulated to penetrate deep into the engine and coat parts with a protective layer of anti corrosive compound.

Just about every boat has some canvas, and in many cases, it's retained with snaps — those ubiquitous two-part stainless-steel gizmos to which almost every boat owner has a love-hate relationship.

On my last boat, I'd wanted a full boat cover for the protection it afforded. I was less than impressed, however, by the long line of shiny studs visible when the cover was removed.

If only theses had been available then.

Made from a super-durable polymer and available in a variety of colors, including several shades of white, there is sure to be one that will blend in with the color of almost any boat, making the studs far less obtrusive.

Aside from the aesthetic, they're easy to install with a robust molded self-tapping screw.

Placards

There are differences between federal regulations and the standards of ABYC.

So let's walk through this a bit:

Engine weight in boatbuilding is used purely for capacity calculations and testing.

In the ABYC Standards, we require a capacity plate on boats less than 26 feet, while the federal regulations stop at less than 20 feet. ABYC reviews our engine weight table annually and compares it to the market, so, yes, we do change with technology, modifying the weights engine builders use to calculate and test capacities. Hence, the change.

Your boat doesn't fall under the federal guidelines, which haven't changed weight-wise since the 1980s.

So Grady-White responded to the weight change and was able to recalculate and test this model due to the change. That said, they also had to test the ability of the boat to handle not only the weight but the power of the outboard.

Could it pass the ABYC performance test?

Apparently it could, so they could re-placard it with the increased capacity and horsepower.

You could ask Grady-White for an updated placard for your boat, but generally, most manufacturers would be reluctant to issue a new placard given that there are so many variables in such a situation. They also may have made engineering changes you don't see resulting in the higher horsepower. Bottom line, should something happen that results in any legal issues (such an accident), and you had a 300-hp engine with a 250-hp placard, your defensible position would be compromised.