Here’s some tips that can help you keep your sanity and make it through the year.
The Problem: Your new outboard has low hours, yet you notice salt deposits near the spark plugs.
Probable Cause: Seepage from the water-jacket cylinder heads.
The Fix: This isn't uncommon with new engines that are barely broken in. Have the dealer re-torque the cylinder head bolts to factory specs.
The Problem: There's a faint sooty outline on the salon carpet around the engine hatch.
Probable Cause: The engine is hungry for more air and is drawing in exhaust fumes.
The Fix: Increase ventilation either with larger exterior vents, a blower system, or both.
The Problem: There's a vile sour smell all through the boat.
Probable Cause: Gray water is leaking into the bilge.
The Fix: Check the shower sump pump reservoir for hair clogging the filter screen, which causes the soapy water to overflow into the bilge. If your boat has a shower and no sump pump, this is your problem. Another likely cause is a leaking hose in the MSD. A concentrated emulsifying bilge cleaner/deodorizer (such as Simple Green Marine) will help sweeten up things.
The Problem: When you hit the starter button, the engine's solenoid clicks but the engine doesn't crank over. The other electrical gear on board works fine, so you're sure the battery is okay.
Probable Cause: One of the batteries probably has a corroded terminal.
The Fix: Disconnect both connectors and clean the terminals with a battery post cleaning tool or a wire brush. (Do this monthly during the season.) Leave the battery terminals disconnected for now. Also check the engine end of these cables. Remove the ground connector from the engine block and the hot lead at the starter solenoid. Clean the terminals. After remaking these connections, spray a generous coat of Marine Electronics Grease.
The Problem: The hydraulic steering seems mushy and the response uneven.
Probable Cause: The system probably has air in its hydraulic fluid.
The Fix: Most of these systems allow air to be bled out from a fitting at the ram (near the rudders). Following manufacturer's recommendations, crack the bleed screw and have someone cycle the steering system back and forth to purge the air. Afterward, it will be necessary to top off the oil in the reservoir.
The Problem: On the shakedown cruise with your new boat, the bilge pump runs continuously, but there's no water below decks.
Probable Cause: The float switch could be facing forward. It's an improper installation.
The Fix: The float switch should face aft. Otherwise, the running angle of the boat will cause the float switch to rise and activate the pump, even if there's no water in the bilge.