Blog 2016

This article addresses the age old quandry, When Should I replace it or Can I fix It? The key take away is not all things affect the structural integrity, No matter how aesthetically pleasing, safety need to take the lead.

By Austin Frye for Boating Times

Have you ever walked down the docks and caught a glimpse of that one boat in complete disrepair that looks held together mainly by duct tape? While there is a place and a time for utilizing duct tape and other quick fixes, there comes a time when you must fix a boat the right way. Aesthetics are a matter of personal choice — it’s no big deal if you’re OK with buffer trails in your boat or a tear in your mooring cover (despite the elements getting underneath). However, jerry-rigging is not OK when it comes to a vessel’s structural and electrical integrity as well as its power and other mechanical issues. First, safety is a concern and second, electrical or mechanical issues left unattended can lead to major headaches down the road.

I’ve compiled a short list of items that can rip, tear, break, or fail on board your vessel. (This list doesn’t cover everything, but gives you a general idea.) These will be fine with a quick patch if that’s all you’re inclined to do:

    Vinyl tears

    Bimini enclosure tears

    Isinglass yellowing or tears

    Mooring cover tears

    Fiberglass voids

The following must be repaired properly or replaced:

    Ripped or exposed wiring

    Deck soft spots

    Engine malfunctions

    Cracked thru-hull fittings

    Malfunctioning bilge pump or float switches

    Seacock failures

As I stated earlier, restitching a small tear in your canvas or patching a ripped section of vinyl doesn’t jeopardize anything, but a faulty seacock or non-working bilge pump may lead to a sinking. You have to know the difference and be ready to spend money as necessary.

For example, last summer I spent a weekend working on a large sport-fishing vessel, bringing it from Montauk to her homeport in Jones Inlet. Before any long run — or any run for that matter — the engine room is checked to be sure that nothing is leaking, all levels are where they should be, and nothing seems out of place. During that weekend, I advised the owner that while underway, the cabin had an excessive diesel smell and the transom on the starboard side collected more soot than usual; it was chalked up to dirty fuel.

So on Monday morning we embarked during our best weather window and headed for home, experiencing morning rain and six-foot seas until we hit the inlet and surfed our way back to the dock. After thoroughly cleaning the boat and again removing an excessive amount of soot on the transom, I opened the door to the engine room to let it cool down as I always do after a long run. After popping my head into the engine room, I found the room was completely black with soot!

An investigation found that the riser on the port engine had a small hole, which caused both the soot on the transom and the diesel smell in the cabin. The assault on the vessel by the heavy seas on the way home likely made the hole progressively worse, blowing soot throughout the entire engine room but predominately on the starboard side, where it in turn blew out through the vent and onto the transom.

There was no longer any debate — it was time to repair the boat correctly. It started with team members going through the entire engine room, using a steam cleaner to remove all the soot from every surface, nut, bolt, and crevice (it took several passes through the engine room to make sure it was free and clear). After that thorough cleaning, the insurance adjusters assessed the damage and though only the basics of the repair were covered, the vessel’s owner went above and beyond. In addition to replacing the riser and hose clamps associated with it, the owner had the mechanic go through the motor, replacing anything that may have been iffy while the engine was under the knife. This proactive approach sought to avoid future problems, including the need to replace the engine prematurely.

This was a prime instance of when it pays to repair and not patch. Sure, the owner could have duct taped that hole and not replaced anything that insurance wouldn’t cover, but the smart move was to fix it properly before it caused further financial issues. The boat now runs phenomenally well; both engines reach the proper RPM’s. There is no longer a diesel smell in the cabin and the transom no longer becomes thick with soot. Along with financial concerns, everyone on board is now safer — if left unattended, the riser could have come completely off and the boat would have pulled in sea water, and there was a risk of breathing potentially toxic fumes.

Most boaters I know have an arsenal of assorted duct tape colors. If you can live with the look, be my guest and tape everything. Everything, that is, that doesn’t affect the structural integrity of the boat or cause harm to yourself or others.

The Basics

 Not all surveys are the same, but they generally begin by describing the boat overall. This part of the survey lists the year, make, model, hull identification number (HIN), and the basic specs of the boat, such as length, beam, and weight.

It should also explain the scope of the survey, which describes the limitations. For example, it may say that hard-to-access areas were not inspected, that electronics were only powered up and not tested, or that engines were not part of the survey. From there, the survey goes into meatier stuff. It will document the condition of structural components, such as hull and deck, running gear, bulkheads, and engine beds. Things like the fuel, plumbing, and electrical systems are inspected and discussed with respect to relevant standards; living spaces are inspected; and safety items are noted, such as the existence — or the lack — of carbon-monoxide alarms and fire extinguishers.

A good survey is more than just an inventory of the boat's equipment. The surveyor will comment on each section of the inspected boat. Finally, near the end of the survey are the recommendations, arguably the most important part.

Tips To Get More From A Marine Survey

1. If buying a boat, don't rely on an old survey that may not give a current representation of the boat. Insurance underwriters will normally not accept a survey older than six months.

 2. Attend the survey and take the opportunity to ask questions and learn more about your new boat. Most surveyors are happy to talk about what they're finding and what needs to be done to correct any problems. Just don’t be a nuisance, after all, time is money.

3. Don't select a surveyor on price alone; find one that has experience on your type of boat and one with whom you feel comfortable.

4. Boats don't pass or fail a survey. The buyer determines if the boat is acceptable or not, and the insurance company will list what must be done in order to provide coverage.

5. Even a brand-new boat will almost certainly have some recommendations from the surveyor, though most of them should be addressable through the builder's warranty.

 6. Surveys include an approximate current fair-market value for use by lenders and insurance companies. This can serve as a price negotiation tool.

 7. A survey is a useful guide for planning upgrades and repairs and allows you to prioritize your budget.

Wash Your Boat

I get asked this more than you think I should.

The first and simplest task in caring for your boat is to wash it regularly. If you boat in saltwater, rinse your boat thoroughly with fresh water after every outing to remove salt residue. Salt will not only corrode metal, fasteners and other hardware, left too long on your gelcoat, It can mar that as well. Use a long-handle, soft-bristle boat brush and some quality soap. Marine boatwash is best and is formulated for gelcoat. Car wash soap is next best and some boaters use laundry soap in a pinch.

If you don’t go out, and just sit in the marina for a week, wash the boat. If you boat in fresh water, wash the boat. General rule of thumb, every time you go out, wash your boat. If you don’t go out, wash the boat at least once a week.

A lightning-protection system is not designed to prevent a lightning strike, but rather to provide a safe discharge path for the lightning. This is the only viable solution for lightning protection (short of going back to wooden ships, kerosene lamps, and sextants). The technology to prevent lightning strikes does not yet exist.

Lightning-protection systems actually function by acting as the "best" short circuit between the cloud and the water, one designed to lead the lightning harmlessly to ground. The system accomplishes this in two ways: by attracting lightning away from more destructive pathways between cloud and ground, and by sending the charge around, instead of through, what it is protecting.

Surge-protective devices (SPD) or transient voltage surge suppressors (TVSS) should be installed on all equipment that's mission critical, expensive, difficult to replace, and/or prone to lightning damage.

TVSSs are the most exciting development in the field of lightning protection FOR ELECTRONICS.

Reserve Minutes

by Don Casey

Revised by BoatUS editors

This article rings true every season. Take the time to understand he usuage before you realize too late.

Deep Cycle AGM 32Boaters traditionally think of battery capacity in terms of amp-hours, but if the battery will be used to power an inverter, the reserve minutes rating can be more telling. Reserve minutes, also called reserve capacity, is the number of minutes a fully charged battery can sustain a designated constant load--usually 25 amps--before it is fully discharged. For a 12-volt battery, that means battery voltage will have fallen to 10.5 volts. Recalling that we divide watts by volts to get amps, supplying a 300-watt inverter load from a 12-volt battery requires 25 amps.

So a battery with a reserve capacity of 120 minutes can theoretically handle this load for two hours, but the practical limit is just one hour since it is never a good idea to discharge a battery more than 50%. Running a 1,000-watt coffeemaker through an inverter will completely drain this same battery's usable capacity in less than 15 minutes. If you plan to install an inverter, you need a battery with a high reserve minutes rating.

A marine survey can prove invaluable. The key is to know what type of survey you need, how to best prep the boat, the time required and what a survey report can offer.

There are different types of marine surveys, “One is a Pre-Purchase inspection, which is the most extensive. The Condition & Valuation inspection, which is the one most requested, is mainly used for financial and insurance purposes. Specifically, it’s very useful to insurance companies to determine if the vessel is an acceptable insurance risk. It will also include the valuation to determine the fair market value of the boat. The Damage inspection consists of an inspection that will help establish the cause of a loss and settle on the extent of the damage.”

It’s a good idea to ask a surveyor if they are familiar with the type of boat to be surveyed.

Some surveyors may only survey modern boats typically used in charter, and may lack the specific knowledge of boats built using unusual materials, or older boats. If a boat is wood, or steel or alloy, then finding a surveyor with experience with these materials is important. Ask them for a sample survey too. Most surveyors will be happy to provide this.”

Prepare the boat for a survey

The boat should always be clean and free of miscellaneous items. Paperwork should be on hand and available to present to the surveyor. If it is required to have the boat hauled out or to undergo a sea trial, the arrangements should be made and scheduled by the owner. 

How long does a survey take?

It depends on the size of the vessel. I can take one full day to inspect a typical 45-foot sail boat. It takes then probably another half-day to write the report. Length of time also depends on the vessel’s overall condition.

A 24-foot runabout can likely have a survey completed in a few hours. A 140-foot mega yacht survey could take a week.

It’s not mandatory for a boat owner or potential buyer to attend a survey. 

The most common question marine surveyors are asked?

How Much? What’s the cost? Owners and buyers all too often look at a survey as merely a logistical ‘hoop’ to jump through. However, a good survey report serves as a tool to highlight deficiencies and plan future maintenance pre-purchase, to determine the cause and scope of damage (particularly if a third party is involved in an incident) as well as study costs for a complete claim and to represent the owner’s interest during the repair process

The new Chinese year arrived Monday, and its one to go bananas over. On Feb. 8, the zodiac calendar entered the Year of the Monkey — the ninth of 12 animal signs.

Having a baby in the Year of the Monkey is generally thought to be more auspicious than in that of its predecessor, the sheep, and the cute creature is in any case largely beloved by the masses for its playful and human-like characteristics, despite a penchant for stealing food.

The new lunar year is already boosting a fighting style that imitates the movements of a monkey. It also offers an excuse to cash in on China's most famous monkey — Sun Wukong, or the Monkey King — a fabled demon-slayer.

Those born in the Year of the Monkey are held to be playful, mischievous and clever — much like a monkey.

"Many people say people born in the Year of the Monkey are smart and have a very good imagination, but it is thought that their chances of achieving success are not very good as they are less capable of executing things," said Beijing resident Wang Jinping, whose zodiac sign is the monkey.