Blog 2014

WHAT FLOATS YOUR BOAT?

 Or keeps it afloat......

Here’s some cold hard facts about boating mishaps involving sinking..

 According to BoatUS, the largest insurer of pleasure boats in the country, for every boat that sinks at sea, four go down in their slips. That’s a fairly amazing stat.

 Why?

 The sad truth is you don't have to have a rendezvous with a rock to get a one-way ticket down to the bottom. In fact, you don't have to do anything. Just let your boat sit awhile, and eventually it will find the bottom.

SO WHAT CAN YOU DO?

PART I

As the storage season approaches for many of us, I offer some of the more common causes for boat sinking’s and things to explore and some tips on how to avoid the symptoms.

Avoiding sinking 

Store your stern drive in the down position when out of the water to avoid the bends and creases that stress rubber. Inspect the bellows two or three times a year and replace it annually.

 Scuppers in the Fall & Winter

 The scuppers can get clogged with leaves. This won't seal the drains, but it can greatly slow the release of water. In a heavy rain storm, the cockpit can fill enough to weigh down the boat so it floods or accumulates enough water to reach non-waterproof openings in the deck and fill the bilge.

 Keep the cockpit covered, or have wide-mesh external screens made to protect the scuppers.

 If you don’t, when snow falls and ice builds up around the scuppers, they will fill. Since this occurs under the snow, you won’t see it. The added weight of the snow and ice will cause the boat to sink. Haul out for the winter, or have a waterproof, reinforced cover that can take the weight of accumulated snow

While the boat is on land, check the hoses by flexing them back and forth. If there are any cracks, replace the hoses. And while its out of the water, inspect the plumbing. Look for apiece of plumbing corroded, cracked, or just weak. The weakest link is the hose that can crack, most often around the stress points created by the clamps.

 Hose Clamp Failure

Inspect your hose clamps. A hose attached to a seacock below the waterline, or a through-hull just above it, can came off its fitting because the hose clamps gave way. The result could be extremely wet. Secure each hose with two clamps where it passes over the fitting's nipple. Check that the clamps are all stainless steel (a magnet won't attract stainless). Often, the tightening gear and its case are mild steel, which rusts away.

 Stuffing Box

 The packing gland surrounding the prop shaft loosened. Or perhaps it rotted away as it hadn't been replaced for many seasons.

Dripless shaft seals that require minimal maintenance are used by 90 percent of today's boatbuilders. But many boaters still use old-fashioned stuffing boxes on the rudder shafts. Check stuffing boxes often, and replace.

 Trapped Under a Dock

 You tied up the boat at low tide. The wind pushed part of the boat under the dock, the tide came up, and the boat became trapped beneath the dock, then took on water and eventually sank.

 This can happen when the pilings supporting the dock are too far apart to keep the boat parallel to the dock and out from under it. No matter how many dock lines you rig, this will be a problem. If you can't dock elsewhere else, set anchors out from the bow and stern so the boat won't swing.

 Tied Down, Tide Up

At low tide, your bow and stern lines were tight. When the tide came up, the lines stayed that way-firmly holding the boat down as the water rose.

Long spring lines attached at acute angles to the boat adjust as the boat rises and falls. Bow and stern lines may have to be tended as the tide goes through its cycle.

MORE ON THURSDAY IN PART II  

Boat storage methods are numerous and can be simple,. Here are some of the advantages  and disadvantages of the three most common methods to store your boat..

1. Backyard Storage

Many boat owners opt to cover their trailer- able boats and store them in their yards over the winter. Keeping the boat in your yard is usually the least expensive and most convenient, but extreme care should be taken to choose the right cover.

Boat cover prices can range from under $200 to over $3,000 for a custom cover. Most Boat Industry Experts generally agree that purchasing a high-end boat cover is the best way to go. If you purchase a cheap cover that doesn't allow enough airflow it can promote mildew, causing problems and costing more further down the road. Choose the best cover you can afford with a fabric that is strong, breathable and water-resistant. If your budget allows, a custom cover and frame is a worthwhile investment.

2. Boatyard Shrink-wrapped

Shrink-wrapping will keep your boat dry and well ventilated, meaning less chance of mildew. Almost all Boat yards specialize in shrink-wrapping boats. If you wish,  you can purchase do-it-yourself kits at marine stores for boats 25 feet and under.

The downside to shrink-wrap is you will be unable to work on your boat during the winter. If this isn't a problem, it may be the option you will want to choose if you don't have space for a trailering and storing your boat at home.

3. Indoor Storage

Options abound with indoor boat storage. Unheated or heated. Climate controlled or not. The obvious pro in storing your boat at an indoor facility is protection from the elements and having access to your boat during the winter months. The downside is that storing your boat at an indoor facility is usually costly and they usually dictate when you can have access to the boat.

Just remember when choosing a winter boat storage method, choose the solution that provides the best protection for your boat investment at the price and accessibility you can most afford.

These three simple statements should guide you when you are out on the water.

Operate 

Your number one job is to operate your boat responsibly!!

Nothing should distract you from that. I understand how difficult it can be at times. You are out for a great day of fishing with your spouse or boyfriend/girlfriend, Your spouse is going on and on you for a new car to get the kids to soccer practice or your boyfriend/girlfriend won’t leave you alone about the tickets for the upcoming concert. A big fish has just hit your  line and your thoughts go to catching it.

Are you still thinking about your boat?

 You get the idea. Remember, stay focused.

You still are responsible for the safety of the boat and everyone on board.

Navigate

You must, at all times, know where you are and where you are going.

 And by that I mean something more accurate than just knowing the name of the body of water you are on or proudly telling your guests; "That’s America over there". At least sharpen your skills to the point that you can proclaim with some certainty "That’s Montauk, (I think)".

Communicate

Always, .always,  always …..

Whenever you are in doubt, communicate!

Don’t worry that you will sound stupid asking someone what the clearance of that bridge is up ahead?

 Think about how stupid you will look when the mast of your boat is in the cockpit with you. Not sure what the intentions of that tug and tow heading directly at you are?

ASK!

THINKING OF A CRUISE?

I ‘m often  asked,   When is the best time for a cruise vacation ?

It's a question that really has a lot of answers. Really, it's not an easy one If you want to see  Fall foliage  for instance, you will find September and October the best time to take that Canada/New England cruise. If you are into water sports or have a young family you probably prefer to sail the region in the summer when school is out and temperatures are warm for swimming.  Then again if you are interested in an Alaskan cruise, your optimal sail dates will vary depending on your preferences for wildlife-viewing, fishing, bargain-shopping, sunshine, warm weather and catching the Northern Lights.

So what factors influence your timing?

Do you need to schedule around school breaks? Is a holiday week the best time for your cruise? Is your main goal to escape winter temperatures? Or maybe you have lots of flexibility or a budget and don't mind making a few tradeoffs in timing for a steal on a cabin. Your answers will influence which sailing season is your best option.

 Most cruise regions have periods of peak demand (high season), moderate demand (shoulder season) and low demand (low season). Not so long ago, high season tended to be when the weather was best in a particular area (and when all the northerners flocked to the sun), but as more families take to cruising, the summer months have become a peak-demand period, regardless of the weather .  Families especially need to book high-season sailings as early as possible because some cruise lines limit the total number of children per sailing, and each ship has a limited number of cabins that can accommodate three or more people.

Slow and shoulder seasons often give you the best bargain opportunities in year-round destinations where the off season is longer.

Low seasons have shrunk in many areas, thanks to the boom in new cruising destinations and homeports, and the smart thinking of the cruise lines in repositioning ships to the places people want to sail and at the times when they want to sail them.

The great thing about a cruise ship iIs that they don’t have to wait it out for the season to change; they  can move the ships to where people want to go..

SOME MORE TIPS FOR GETTING READY TO WINTERIZE

Part 2

I started on Tuesday with some winterizing tips. Here's some more....

5: REPLACE GEAR OIL

Drain the lower unit of old gear oil and replace with a fresh supply. Whn changing the gear oil, be sure to check for moisture. If water comes out first, or if you see milky or lumpy oil, this is an indication your boat is experiencing moisture contamination and will need new seals before next season.

 6: GREASE AND LUBRICATE

 Find your engine’s grease fittings (most will be located in the steering

mechanism area), then use a quality marine lubricant to protect against rust,

corrosion and oxidation. Check your owner’s manual to be sure you don’t miss any

important areas that need to be greased before winter storage.

 7: REMOVE VALUABLES

 Boatyards receive little traffic in the winter, which makes break-ins easy.

Remove all valuables, including expensive electronics.

 8: CLEAN AND WAX

  9: COVER

 The best place to store your boat is in dry storage, but this can be expensive—especially in areas with long winters. At a minimum, you’ll need to cover your boat with a durable cover. Another good option is to shrink wrap your vessel.

Winterizing Your Boat

 PART 1

As you enjoy the season’s final weeks of sunshine, start thinking about preparing to winterize your boat.

Here are nine steps to make your spring startups more enjoyable.

STEP 1: REPLACE ENGINE OIL

Moisture and acids in old oil will pit bearings and other engine parts while in storage, so you need to drain it. First warm up the engine, while in water, so more of the dirty oil will drain out and impurities will flush out more easily.

 Use high quality oil and filters as recommended by your engine’s manufacturer. For 4-stroke outboard motors, change the oil and filter before storing for the winter.

STEP 2: FLUSH AND DRAIN COOLING WATER

 To prevent damage from expanding water when it freezes, you must drain water

from your engine.

For inboard and stern driven engines: Flush the engine with clean water by using water muffs or a similar device to connect a garden hose to your cooling system. (Never run a water engine without water). Then flush until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Remember, remove drain plugs. These are usually located in the engine block and manifold. You may also need to remove the water pump hose to drain remaining water.

STEP 3: STABILIZE YOUR FUEL

Fuel can deteriorate in as little as 60 days, causing gum and varnish to build up in your engine. This results in hard starting, poor performance and reduced engine life.

The easiest way to prevent these problems is by adding a high quality marine

fuel stabilizer to prevent fuel deterioration. Then fill the tank with fresh fuel to prevent corrosion-causing water condensation. Simply run the engine for a few minutes to get treated gas throughout system—either when your boat’s in the water or while using a fitting designed to run the engine with a garden hose.

Here’s A Myth Buster: Simply draining gasoline does not prevent varnish formation in engines, since some fuel is always left behind. In addition, gaskets can dry out and that can cause leaks in the spring.

STEP 4: PROTECT INTERNAL ENGINE COMPONENTS

Remember, While in storage, engine oil drains away. This exposes internal engine components to harsh elements in winter and can lead to corrosion and metal-to-metal contact, called cylinder scuffing, come spring.  To prevent these issues, use a fogging oil spray. This type of product isspecially formulated to penetrate deep into the engine and coat parts with a protective layer of anticorrosive compound.

More on Thursday in Part 2!!

There’s been a lot of unfortunate news about mishaps with propellers this season. With that in mind, here are some simple reminders.

Simple Steps to Minimize Propeller Injury

 First, exercise some common sense!!!!

- Personally look at the area around your boat’s propeller before starting the engine

. Don’t count on others —see for yourself.

- Before you set out for the day, take a moment to inform your passengers of the location and dangers of the propellers, and call attention to any propeller warning labels around your boat.

- Never permit passengers to ride on the bow, gunwale, transom, seatbacks, or

other locations where they might fall overboard and under the boat. Accidents

can happen in the blink of an eye… and so can propeller strikes.

- Establish and communicate rules for swim platform use, boarding ladders, and seating. Your boat, your rules:  be clear and firm!

- Make sure all passengers (including you) wear a lifejacket at all times.

- Consider an engine cut-off switch and other propeller safety devices,

including:

• Propeller guards

• Ringed propellers

• Propulsion alternatives

• Interlocks

• Sensors

• Anti-feedback steering

• Rear-facing video cameras

WHAT TO DO IF SOMEONE IS IN DANGER OF DROWNING

It's something none of us ever want to imagine doing -- jumping in the water to save someone. Did you know in many cases a person or child needing help ends up drowning their rescuer?

Knowing what to do can save the victim's life and yours.

If you are dockside or on a beach once you see that someone is drowning, have someone else call 911.  

"That way if things escalate beyond your control someone will be on the way to help you. If possible, reach a hand out to them, or maybe a leg or a shepherd's hook or long pole or net if handy. . The person in distress will reach out and grab the pole without you actually putting yourself in danger.

If you are on the water, throw out a buoy to them. A buoy is your best bet when jumping in to rescue someone. Going in without one should be your last resort as it is very dangerous.  

Remember, when you jump in to try to save somebody they will not be worried about your well-being but more about theirs at the time, they're trying to get air and they might push you down or they might grab you; preventing you from helping them. 

If you do go in after someone, approach them from behind, as they're less likely to grab you and push you under that way. Talk to them and tell them to remain calm. 

Remember just because you're a great swimmer doesn't mean you won't tire out and need help yourself.. 

Having a plan before an emergency occurs is always best. 

When taking children swimming, you should be undistracted, watching them and be within a foot of them at all times.